Main target of our expedition it to make a full traverse of Mount Logan without air support. Additional, we want to hike all the way from Yakutat Bay (via Kluane Park and Mount Logan) to Chitina AK. Two countries, two national parks (including biggest one in States), biggest non polar ice field on Earth. (route length 450km). It will be also first polish climb on Mount Logan main summit.
10 days from Yakutat to East Ridge.
We left 10th of May from Yakutat (we fly there from Anchorage), we crossed the Yakutat bay with a local, native fisherman, and we started from Malaspina Lake which was partly frozen. We pull sled to East Ridge - via:
---Malaspina Glacier - soft snow conditions and rainy stormy weather - wind up to 100 km/h)
---Seward glacier - lot of fog and crevasses on lower parts, very nice snow and weather above 1100 m. Amazing view on Mount Logan from south side.
---Hubbard glacier. Total lenth from Yakutat to East Ridge aprox 130 km
8 days from bottom of East Ridge to summit Plateau.
Perfect weather! This part we get lucky - we climbed East Ridge twice because of our gear.
8 days to traverse East Peak and climb Main Summit.
Very bad weather, very windy and poor visibility. We spend 4 nights in 2 snow caves. On one day at 5 o clock in the morning I fall in 10 meter crevasse (no rope between us at this time). But we get lucky, I was able to get out by myself and we use rope to get out rest of the gear. That was good crevasse, perfect shape and no blue ice. I get stuck couple meters from the bottom of it. We climbed summit on our 24th day, 3rd of June about 3 o clock Alaska time. Very windy on the summit. Amazing day. After coming down from the summit to our snow cave we have meet 2 Canadian climbers (first 2 people on our way).
Down King Trench Route
It took us another 2 dys to get to the pass between Aina and Prospectors peak on 5400 and after that we get down the King Trench Route. This day we saw 6 climbers going up the King Trench but we didn't meet. At camp 4 we wait for Canadians and they gave us some food from the cache (4 years old). We get sick because we ate to many dried fruits :). There were no tracks below camp 4 and soft snow. We found our way and we met Gerard and the other men from Switzerland. So on our entire trip we meet 4 people. At the bottom of King Trench very foggy. We found our way because previous people left small flags.
To Hubbards Landing
After getting off King Trench Route we have lot of crevasses at the beginning of Oglavie glacier. It was miracle but we found the way through the ice falls on Oglavile glacier in the fog (probably we could be lost without this fog :) ). Next day we walk down the Oglavile glacier to Logan Glacier. Snow was getting icy and hard but not nice for walking and pulling sled. Very tuff moraines to cross between Oglavile glacier and Logan glacier.
Snow on Logan glacier was even worse. We left half of our gear there because pulling sled was impossible. Ice axes, crampons, snowshoes, rope and sleds (sorry for this but we didnt have a choice). We walk to hubbard landing. Later we crossed the border with Alaska again and hell begins. We run out of food and snow finished. Logan moraines are Hell !!! Up and down on rocks on ice, and up and down, 1km/h. Paul Claus from UTO drop us some food. Later we have cross some serious streams on Walsh Glacier, later we climbed the ridge north of Logan Glcier, later we walk Chitina glacier moraines. Hell again, hard to find clean water. And last 2 days we walk without food. Finally exhausted we reached Hubbards Landing where raft and food waited for us. Hundreds of bear tracks around... We reached Hubards Landing after 32 days, leaving from Yakutat.
On our 34th day we raft Chitina river. On 6th km we get flip over by strong current and the waves. That was scarred!, Water was cold. We were in the water. But it was miracle again and another wave flipped over our raft again and we were able to survive. We made a fire ad wormed up. The same day we finish our rafting (with one paddle, 45 km ) to Ultima Thule Lodge - to Paul Clause. He welcome us by sauna and good food. We were exhausted. I lost 5kg and Tomek 4. Next day we fly with Paul to Chitina, and drove to Anchorage and this is end of the story. Total length of our trip - 450 km.