Main target of our expedition it to make a full traverse of Mount Logan without air support. Additional, we want to hike all the way from Yakutat Bay (via Kluane Park and Mount Logan) to Chitina AK. Two countries, two national parks (including biggest one in States), biggest non polar ice field on Earth. (route length 450km). It will be also first polish climb on Mount Logan. Nobody before us did something like we are planning to do.
About Mount Logan (5959 m.):
Mt. Logan is situated in the remote St. Elias Range of North Western Canada in the Yukon Territory. It is the crown jewel of Kluane National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Logan is the highest point in Canada, and though second in North America only to Mount McKinley, is described as a more spectacular mountain without the crowds. It is a remote mountain located in the middle of the largest non-polar ice field on the planet.
The Logan massif rises about 3,000 m from the surrounding glaciers and has the largest base circumference of any mountain on Earth. A glaciated plateau, about 20 km long and 5 km wide covers the top of the massif, and due to active tectonic uplifting, Mt. Logan is actually still rising in elevation. The exact elevation of Mount Logan is still unknown. Current elevation measurements for the mountain go from 5950 to 6050 m.
Due to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska, severe snow storms can hit the upper part of the mountain any time of the year. Temperatures are extremely cold on and near Mount Logan. On May 26, 1991 a record -77.5 °C (-106.6 °F) was observed, making it the coldest recorded temperature outside of Antarctica.
By anyone's standards the scale of the Logan Massif is truly awe-inspiring. Many experienced Himalayan climbers have said that they always though they had seen truly gigantic peaks in their lives until they had their first glimpse of Logan. It absolutely soars some 3000 m higher than the surrounding glaciers and peaks and many people remark how it completely occupies the horizon even from a great distance.
We start in Anchorage AK. We get there from Europe by plane. After renting a raft, buying all necessary food and suppliers we will take a ferry from Whittier to Yakutat. Yakutat is a small fishing village and we will get to the west side of Yakutat Bay with one of the local fisherman.
First of all we have to cross a Malaspina Glacier, the largest piedmont glacier this far south in North America. It is about 65 km (40 mi) wide and 45 km (28 mi) long, with an area of some 3,900 km2 (1,500 sq mi). Next we will travel by Seward glacier, and between Mount Cook (4194m) and Mount Augusta (4289m) we will cross a border between Alaska and Canada and we'll enter Kluane Park. We will continue by Seward glacier to Hubbard glacier and all the way to the bottom of East Ridge of Mount Logan. It will be around 130 km to this place. It should take us maximum one week.
Type: Snow & Ice,
Rating: A major high-altitude ridge with severe weather, high objective hazards, and difficult snow and ice climbing.
We start climbing at around 2400 m elevation and we continue 3 km up the ridge all the way to main summit. Major difficulties of this climb it will be our gear. We want to climb up with everything what we have because we want to do a full traverse of the mountain and continue our travel to Chitina after getting down on the west side of Logan (King Trench route). So probably we will have to climb up and down couple times in most difficult parts to carry our gear and food. This kind of climbing will support our acclimatization but will be slower and harder.
East Ridge will take us to the east summit, we will continue to the main summit and we will continue west. We will go down the mountain by King Trench Route
First climbed in 1959, the East Ridge of Mount Logan is a fine snow and ice climb, involving some steep sections of snow/ice with short sections of rock. The route is highlighted by two exciting knife-edge ridges, where the exposure is wild. The East Ridge leads the climbers to the East Summit of Mount Logan, at 5930m, which is separated from the Main Summit by a 3 km-long ridge. Here is a map of East Ridge from May 1999 HERE
We will travel on the snowshoes not skies. Maybe not faster, but lighter and more comfortable. We will pull a sled with a supply. We will have a photo and movie camera with us. We are planning to have a satellite phone with us.
All route with this part on raft is approximately 450 km. 130 km to the bottom of East Ridge, 50 km over Mount Logan, 60 km from King Trench Route to Hubbards Landing, and around 250 km by raft. We are planning to do this in 6 weeks.
pictures from my Winter solo visit in Kluane Park 2007 HERE
Marek Klonowski urodzony born in Gryfinino -Poland Traveling:
by bicycle around Black Sea, 6800km in 2 months including Elbrus, KackarDagi, Moldavlenau, Gerlach climb on his way 2003. (traveler of the year 2003- first prize of polish traveler magazine)
To Croatia by bicycle 2002.
Around Baltic Sea by bicycle with 45 kg dog on bicycle trailer, 2 months 5600 km 2004.
First solo Denali traverse 2005. Hitchhike from New York to Alaska. Hikes in Denali, Katmai, valley of 10 000 smokes.
6 months on the biggest sailing ship on the world. Solo climbing in Dolomites and Tatra Mountains summer and winter. Mount Logan winter solo expedition 2007.
Movie maker. "Best Film of Mountainiering" in Vancouver International Mountain Movie Festival 2007. Prizes in polish traveling and climbing festivals. Photography. Sailing (Olympic class 470). Occupation: used to work at the sea, automation, wind energy industry. www.windpower.pl , at present in Ireland. He wrote a book:
"Moje Buty"(kliknij). His movie on youtube www.pl.youtube.com/profile?user=mrufkaz2007 ).
Last movie from Mount Logan solo winter expedition:
Much more about Marek on his website: www.mruwa.prv.pl
Tomasz Mackiewicz (dr. Czapkins) born 13-I-1975 roku in Czestochowa - Poland. Sailor, traveler, climber. Traveling in Asia, Iran, Pakistan, India, Nepal, by bicycle from Kalkuta via Bangladesh, Thailand, Cambodia, Kazakhstan, Laos, China, Russia, Ukraine. Rock climbing 6.3 6.3+, bouldering. He build sailing yacht Flower by himself. He sail Ross lake and his yacht sink :. 4x4 cars. Lada Niva, Mitsubishi Pajero. Set up a 4x4 climbing expedition to Mali but never went :. More about him on his website www.czapajew.pl. Short movie about on of his climbing actions here: http://ie.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=2EC86E291B5FD78E